Saturday, May 14, 2016

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How to Save for Retirement on a Small Salary



It's extremely difficult to save for retirement when your paychecks are barely big enough to cover your basic expenses. But there are a variety of strategies you can use to build a nest egg, even on a small income. Here's how to best prepare for retirement with a meager salary:

Find a job with good retirement benefits. When deciding where you would like to work, make sure you consider the retirement plan as part of the compensation package. "If they offer a retirement plan, that's a job that should probably be looked at a little harder than one that does not have a retirement plan," says Sam McPherson, a certified financial planner and CEO of McPherson Financial Advisors in Brooklyn, N.Y. "If you participate and you get a match, you are effectively getting a raise beyond what their quoted salary is." For example, if you are choosing between two positions that each pay $35,000 per year, but one offers a 401(k) match of up to 3 percent a year, you could potentially earn $36,050 at the job with the retirement account if you save enough to get the entire match, $1,050 more than the job without the 401(k) match.

Take advantage of tax breaks. If you save even a small amount in a traditional 401(k) or IRA, you can defer paying income tax on the amount contributed. "You reduce your taxable income by the amount of your contributions to a regular 401(k)," says Scott Winkler, a certified financial planner and founder of Winkler Financial Planning in Norcross, Ga. A worker in the 15 percent tax bracket who saves $1,000 in an IRA or 401(k) will save $150 on their next federal income tax bill. IRA, but not 401(k), contributions can even be made just before you file your tax return in April to capture nearly immediate tax savings.

Get the saver's credit. Low- and moderate-income workers who contribute to a 401(k) or IRA are additionally eligible for a retirement saver's tax credit. Employees who earn less than $29,500 for singles, $44,250 for heads of household and $59,000 for couples in 2013 may be able to claim this tax credit worth up to $1,000 for individuals and $2,000 for couples. "Your credit rate is dependent on how much you contribute and depends on the size of your income," Winkler says. The saver's credit can be claimed on up to $2,000 in retirement account contributions, and the credit ranges from 10 percent to 50 percent of the amount contributed, with the biggest credits going to savers with the lowest incomes. For example, a couple earning $30,000 that contributes $1,000 to a traditional IRA would get a $500 credit.

Consider a Roth IRA. Workers who are in a low tax bracket but expect to be in a higher tax bracket later in their career or in retirement have much to gain by making Roth IRA or Roth 401(k) contributions. Roth accounts allow you to pre-pay income tax based on your current low income. No income tax will be due on withdrawals in retirement, even if you are in a higher tax bracket then. "It's best to use a Roth when you are younger and you have a very long time for growth," Winkler says. Roth accounts also give you the ability to withdraw your contributions, but not the earnings, without having to pay income tax or a penalty if you need the money for an emergency. "The Roth has more flexibility," McPherson says. "With a Roth, you don't get any tax deduction, but if you had to withdraw your contributions, you don't have to pay any tax or any penalty."

Keep costs low. While it's important for all investors to make sure they aren't paying more in fees and investment expenses that they need to, fees can be especially problematic for retirement savers who need to make every dollar count. "It's enormously important to choose low-cost index funds," McPherson says. "The one thing investors can control is how much we pay for our investment management and investment accounts." Actively managed equity funds had an average expense ratio of 0.92 percent in 2012, far higher than the 0.13 percent average annual cost charged by index equity funds, according to Investment Company Institute and Lipper data.
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11 Ways to Avoid the IRA Early Withdrawal Penalty




If you withdraw money from your individual retirement account before age 59 1/2, you will generally have to pay a 10 percent early withdrawal penalty in addition to income tax on the amount withdrawn. This means a $5,000 withdrawal taken by a mid-career worker in the 25 percent tax bracket would result in $1,750 in taxes and penalties. But there are a variety of ways to avoid the IRA early withdrawal penalty if you meet specific criteria:

Turn age 59 1/2. Once you turn age 59 1/2, you can withdraw any amount from your IRA without having to pay the 10 percent penalty. But regular income tax will still be due on each withdrawal. IRA distributions are not required until after age 70 1/2.

College costs. You can avoid the early withdrawal penalty if you use the distribution to pay for higher education costs for you, your spouse or the children or grandchildren of you or your spouse. Spending the money on tuition, fees, books and other supplies required for attendance will get you an exemption from the 10 percent penalty.

Room and board also count if the individual attending college is at least a half-time student. Qualifying institutions include colleges, universities and vocational schools eligible to participate in federal student aid programs.

However, IRA distributions are considered taxable income and could impact your child's eligibility for federal financial aid. "Let's say the tuition payment is $25,000. You have just added $25,000 of taxable income," says Jeremy Portnoff, a certified financial planner for Portnoff Financial in Woodbridge, N.J. "It could push you into a higher bracket, you could pay a higher tax rate on that money and it could affect your ability to take deductions."

A first home purchase. You can take a penalty-free IRA distribution of up to $10,000 ($20,000 for couples) to buy, build or rebuild your first home or the first home of you or your spouse's child, grandchild or parent. For the purposes of avoiding the IRA early withdrawal penalty, the IRS considers you to be a first-time homeowner if you or your spouse did not own a home during the two-year period leading up to the home sale. If the purchase or construction of your home is canceled or delayed, put the money back in your IRA within 120 days of the distribution to avoid the penalty.

Medical expenses. You can use IRA distributions to pay for unreimbursed medical expenses that exceed 10 percent of your adjusted gross income without incurring the early withdrawal penalty. "The distribution has to be in the same year as the medical expense," says Kathleen Campbell, a certified financial planner for Campbell Financial Partners in Fort Myers, Fla.

Health insurance. IRA distributions can be taken without penalty to pay for health insurance for you, your spouse and your dependents following a period of unemployment. To qualify, you need to receive unemployment compensation for 12 consecutive weeks due to job loss. The distribution must be taken in the year you received the unemployment compensation or the following year, and no later than 60 days after you have been reemployed.

Disability. If you become disabled to the point that you cannot participate in gainful activity due to your physical or mental condition, you can quality for an exemption to the early withdrawal penalty. But be prepared to prove it. "A physician must determine that your condition can be expected to result in death or to be of long, continued and indefinite duration," according to the IRS.

Leave it to an heir. If you die before age 59 1/2, your traditional IRA can be distributed to a beneficiary or your estate without incurring the 10 percent penalty. However, if a spouse inherits the IRA and elects to treat it as his or her own, it may become subject to the 10 percent penalty. "If the spouse is under age 59 1/2 and they think they will need the money before age 59 1/2, I would leave it as the inherited IRA," Portnoff says. "If that spouse rolls it over to their IRA, they are subject to the 10 percent penalty."

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Saturday, April 23, 2016

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Summer Job? Time to Start a Roth I.R.A.



When teenagers earn money for the first time, there are so many things they can do with it.

In some families, teenagers contribute to basic costs like housing. In others, parents expect summer earnings to replace a weekly allowance. Many teenagers save for their first car, and few among the college-bound escape the pressure to put money away for tuition.

Some parents dictate the terms, while in other families, there’s a negotiation over how to divide the money once a summer job has ended. It’s rare, however, that families consider the possibility of giving a child a running start on retirement savings.

It’s a shame, too. That’s because the boost that comes from opening a retirement savings account as a teenager instead of a few years after college can lead to hundreds of thousands of extra dollars after a half-century of growth.

Most of us have seen basic compound interest graphs before, so we know how the math works for grown-ups who start setting money aside from their first full-time paycheck. But beginning even earlier supercharges the savings for families that can afford it — or who reel in grandparents and others willing to match a child’s contributions.

The process starts with a Roth individual retirement account, and it will need to be a custodial account, with an adult co-signing, if the teenager is under 18. The nice thing about Roths is that you generally pay no taxes on the withdrawals. So the money will grow for many decades and then come out tax-free as long as the rules don’t change. While there are no tax deductions for deposits, that doesn’t mean much to teenagers whose income is so low that they may not pay any income taxes at all.

If you’re trying to persuade children or grandchildren to save rather than ordering them to do so, you could start with some simple numbers. If you take $5,000 in savings from a few summer jobs and put it in a Roth at age 19, it will grow to $52,006 by the time you’re 67 if it grows at a 5 percent annual rate. Wait until 25 to start with that same $5,000, however, and the balance at age 67 is just $38,808. You can plug your own numbers and investment return assumptions into the Roth I.R.A. calculator at dinkytownnet.

Things get more interesting, however, if you pledge that once a Roth is open, you’ll spend a few years helping a young adult max out the $5,500 contribution each year as long as that person earns the $5,500 necessary to make a deposit of that size. If that 19-year-old starts with $5,000 and makes the maximum contribution each year until 67, the ending balance is $1,164,985 if it grows at a 5 percent annual clip. That’s over $330,000 more than what someone would end up with if they waited just six years, until age 25, to start the Roth and then saved the same amount.

An increase of about a third of a million dollars ought to be enough to get any teenager’s attention, even if a dollar won’t be worth as much 50 years from now. For grandparents, uncles, aunts and others looking for a way to make a meaningful contribution to a child’s future financial stability, this is a nice way to do it while directly rewarding hard work. You might match some or all of what teenagers make and even open the account with them. It’s also fine for you to give them the matching funds for the Roth, while all of their actual earnings go toward the car, college or allowance replacement.

Some families do seem to be catching on to these possibilities. At Charles Schwab, 87 percent of all custodial accounts are Roths. Vanguard reports that about 2 percent of Roth I.R.A. contributors over the last five years have been people younger than 20. According to Fidelity, the number of Roth I.R.A. accounts there owned by people under 20 increased 22 percent from the second quarter of 2013 to the second quarter of 2014.

To parents who can’t simply write checks for college tuition, another car or an allowance, matching or even saving a teenager’s earnings in a Roth will probably seem highfalutin. If you fear that every dollar a teenager saves will lead to a need to borrow that much more money for college tuition, then it will be tempting to forgo the potential long-term winnings to keep the shorter-term loan balances as low as possible.

Other parents may worry about the financial aid implications, given that colleges generally want families to turn over a large chunk of student assets each year. The good news here is that when you’re filling out the Fafsa form to determine eligibility for various forms of federal financial aid, a student’s Roth or other retirement account is not part of the calculation.

Scores of colleges and universities do require families to fill out an additional form known as the CSS/Financial Aid Profile. On it, student applicants must report a single total for all their retirement balances as of the end of the previous year. In theory, these schools could take this number into account when determining how much of their own grant money to award the applicant.

But for now, few, if any, colleges appear to be penalizing students for owning a Roth. Eileen O’Leary, assistant vice president for student financial assistance at Stonehill College in Easton, Mass., said she had seen a financial aid applicant disclose a retirement account only once. As far as she knows, asking students to pay more based on any such balance is not widespread. It may well be that so far at least, it’s mostly affluent families (who don’t need aid) who help their teenagers open Roths. Still, she suggests asking about a college’s policy if a financial aid applicant has a Roth or is thinking about opening one.

Kal Chany, who advises families through his firm Campus Consultants in New York City, has had only a handful of college applicants as clients who also had retirement accounts. Even though some of them have had balances upward of $10,000, he knows of no adverse impact on financial aid so far. Still, he said he feared that might change if lots of families started putting their children’s earnings in Roths or matched those earnings with their own money.

For now, however, the risk seems reasonably small for families applying for financial aid. The potential gain over many decades for all families is enormous, especially if the supervision turns the young adult into a regular saver who maxes out the contributions early in life and continues to do so.

Paying for college is enormously challenging, but that problem may end up paling in comparison to what will happen when millions of pensionless people who didn’t save enough in their workplace retirement accounts and I.R.A.s start running out of money. The earlier we start helping the youngest among us avoid that fate, the better.

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Nine compelling benefits of a Roth IRA



Wondering how a Roth IRA works and what its benefits are? A Roth IRA can help lower your taxes and increase your retirement savings (as long as certain requirement are met.1) But those are just two of the many benefits of a Roth IRA.

"We believe that most people should consider a Roth IRA,” says Ken Hevert, vice president of retirement products at Fidelity. “And that’s either by contributing to one or converting to one. Besides tax-free withdrawals, a Roth IRA also offers flexibility, doesn’t require distributions when you reach a certain age, and can benefit your heirs."

Before we delve into nine key benefits of a Roth IRA, here’s an important note: Not everyone can contribute to a Roth IRA, because of IRS-imposed income limits. But even if your income is over the limits, you still may be able to have one by converting existing money in a traditional IRA or other retirement savings account. (See “If you earn too much to contribute,” at the end of the article.)

1. Money may grow tax free; withdrawals are tax free, too.

You contribute money that has already been taxed (after-tax dollars) to a Roth IRA. There’s no tax deduction on the front end as there can be with a traditional IRA. Any growth or earnings from the investments in the account—and money you take out in retirement—is free from federal taxes (and usually state and local taxes too), with a few conditions. Withdrawals from Roth IRAs are federal income tax free and penalty free if a five-year “aging” period has been met (if a withdrawal is made after a five-year period, beginning with the first taxable year after a contribution to any Roth IRA was made), and the account owner is age 59½ or older, disabled, or deceased. There’s also a $10,000 exception for first-time homebuyers.

2. There are no minimum required distributions.

Roth IRAs do not have minimum required distributions (MRDs), also called required minimum distributions (RMDs), during the lifetime of the original owner. Traditional IRAs and, generally, 401(k), 403(b), and other employer-sponsored retirement savings plans—both Roth and traditional—do. If you don’t need your distributions for essential expenses, MRDs may be a nuisance. They have to be calculated and withdrawn each year, and may result in taxable income. If you miss taking one, there could be a big penalty as well—50% of the MRD not taken. Because a Roth IRA eliminates the need to take MRDs, it may also enable you to pass on more of your retirement savings to your heirs (see below).

3. Leave tax-free money to heirs.

In many cases, a Roth IRA has legacy and estate planning benefits, but you need to consider carefully the pros and cons—which can be subtle and complex. Be sure to consult an attorney or estate planning expert before attempting to use Roth accounts as part of an estate plan.

For instance, if you’re planning to leave your retirement savings to your heirs, consider how doing so may potentially affect their taxes. MRDs from inherited traditional IRAs generate taxable income for heirs, often during their peak earning years, which could unintentionally push them into a higher marginal tax bracket. While MRDs are also required for inherited Roth IRAs, those distributions generally remain tax free.

On the other hand, if your heirs’ combined federal and state income tax rates are expected to be lower than yours, depending on the situation, they may be better off inheriting a traditional IRA rather than a Roth IRA. This may sound counterintuitive, because the heir would not have to pay taxes on distributions from the Roth IRA, but you should consider the total tax cost—including income taxes paid by both parties as well as any applicable estate taxes—not just the income taxes paid by the heir.

Because Roth IRAs don’t require MRDs during your lifetime, these accounts could potentially grow larger over the years for your heirs. And because you pay the income taxes due up front, when you contribute to a Roth, a Roth IRA conversion may also help reduce the size of your taxable estate.

However, be aware that if you’re planning to leave assets to a charity rather than to your heirs, conversion to a Roth IRA has the potential to be disadvantageous. This is because in many cases IRAs can be left to a charity directly, without any tax liability to either the IRA owner or the charity. In such cases, a conversion would incur taxes that could be avoided.

4. Tax flexibility in retirement.

You've already paid the taxes on the money in a Roth IRA, so as long as you follow the rules, you get to take out your money tax free. Mixing how you take withdrawals between your traditional IRAs and 401(k)s, or other qualified accounts, and Roth IRAs may enable you to better manage your overall income tax liability in retirement. You could, for example, take withdrawals from a traditional IRA up to the top of a tax bracket, and then take any money you need above that bracket from a Roth IRA. “The opportunity for tax diversification is one reason we believe most investors should at least consider having a Roth IRA as part of their overall retirement plan,” says Hevert.

5. Help reduce or even avoid the Medicare surtax.

A Roth IRA may potentially help limit your exposure to the Medicare surtax on net investment income. This is because qualified withdrawals from a Roth IRA don’t count toward the modified adjusted gross income (MAGI) threshold that determines the surtax. MRDs from traditional (i.e., pretax) accounts such as a workplace retirement plan—like a traditional 401(k)—or a traditional IRA, are included in MAGI and do count toward the MAGI threshold for the surtax. Depending on your income in retirement, MRDs could expose you to the Medicare surtax.

6. Hedge against future tax hikes.

Federal tax rates rose in 2013. Will they rise further in the future? There’s no way to know for certain, but the top tax rate remains far below its historical highs, and if you think it might go up again, a Roth IRA may make sense.

7. Use your contributions at any time.

A Roth IRA enables you to take out 100% of what you have contributed at any time and for any reason, with no taxes or penalties. Only earnings in the Roth IRA are subject to restrictions on withdrawals. Generally, withdrawals are considered to come from contributions first. Distributions from earnings—which can be taxable if the conditions are not met—begin only when all contributions have been withdrawn.

8. If you’re older, you can continue to contribute as long as you work.

As long as you have earned compensation, whether it is a regular paycheck or 1099 income for contract work, you can contribute to a Roth IRA—no matter how old you are. There is no age requirement for contributions, as there is for a traditional IRA, where you cannot contribute if you are older than age 70½—even if you have earned income.

9. If you're young, your income is likely to rise.

The younger you are, the more chance there is that your income will be higher when you retire. For instance, if you’re under age 30, it’s likely that your income and spending during retirement will be significantly higher than it is now, at the beginning of your career. And the greater the difference between your income now and your income in retirement, the more advantageous a Roth account can be.

If you earn too much to contribute

In order to contribute to a Roth IRA, you must have employment compensation, and then there are income limitsOpens in a new window.. If your income is over the IRS limits, the only way you can take advantage of a Roth IRA’s tax-free withdrawals is by converting money from an existing retirement account, such as a traditional IRA.2 A caveat: Although you may be tempted to pay for the costs of a Roth IRA conversion by using proceeds from the qualified account you’re converting, doing so can reduce the potential benefits of conversion. This is doubly true if you’re not yet age 59½, because you may have to pay a 10% withdrawal penalty in addition to regular income taxes.

In conclusion

No matter what your age, because a Roth IRA may improve your tax picture, it makes sense to take the time to learn how a Roth works and see whether you would benefit from one, notes Hevert. The key is to discuss your situation with a tax or financial adviser to help you fully assess your situation.
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Tuesday, April 12, 2016

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How to create a secure retirement plan


When I retire, I want to create my own pension, but I have reservations about annuities. So I'm thinking of investing some of my savings in a bond fund, leaving the principal untouched and just living off the income. I'll keep the rest of my nest egg in mutual funds and dip into it as needed. Do you think this is a good plan? --Mike A., New York


I totally understand why you're wary of annuities. Many of them are expensive and mind-numbingly complex. So I get your reluctance to include an annuity in your retirement income plan.

But while the strategy you suggest -- putting a portion of your savings into a bond fund and living off the income and other distributions -- might work, it also has some drawbacks. And, perhaps more importantly in your case, it doesn't come close to replicating a pension, at least in the way most people think of one.

Why? Well, the main reason is that is that a pension typically gives you a fixed monthly payment (although in some cases it may rise with inflation) that you can depend on the rest of your life regardless of how the financial markets are performing. Research shows that such reliable income can make for a happier retirement.

With your plan, however, your income can fluctuate, depending on what interest rates do. The value of your investment in the bond fund can also go up or down, rising if interest rates fall and dropping if interest rates rise.

You say you won't sell any shares in the fund, so theoretically at least that shouldn't affect you. I say theoretically because if you decide to abandon your hands-off policy at some point and sell shares because you need extra money, then the current market value of your fund may become an issue, especially if it has declined.

You should also know that you'll likely have to settle for a pretty low level of income from the assets you invest in the bond fund. With investment-grade bond funds currently yielding in the neighborhood of 2% to 4% depending on their maturity, an investment of, say, $150,000 might generate income of roughly $250 to $500 a month these days, although the exact amount will fluctuate (and might include other distributions, such as realized capital gains if interest rates fall and the fund sells bonds at a profit). You can always generate more income from the bond fund by increasing the amount you invest in it, but that would mean diverting money from the rest of your nest egg.

You can call this arrangement whatever you like, but referring to it as a pension is a stretch. That said, if you're okay with the fact that your "pension" income isn't stable and that you'll have to devote considerable assets to a bond fund to generate decent income, then you may want to proceed with your plan.

But if you really want to turn a portion of your nest egg into something that approximates a pension -- a specific amount of money you can count on month in and month out for the rest of your life -- then I suggest you suspend your wariness about annuities long enough to at least consider a type of annuity that's easier to understand, less prone to the abuses that are too often associated with annuities and is very efficient at turning savings into assured lifetime income -- namely, an immediate annuity.

The premise behind an immediate annuity is relatively simple. You turn over a lump sum of cash to an insurer (although you may actually buy the annuity through an adviser or an investment firm rather than directly from the insurer) and in return you get a monthly payment that's guaranteed for life. The size of the payment you get depends, for the most part, on your age, gender, the level of interest rates and the amount of money you invest. (This annuity calculator can give you an estimate of how much you might receive for a given amount invested in an immediate annuity today.)

The way that an immediate annuity might work in your situation is also pretty straightforward. You devote a portion of your nest egg to an immediate annuity and invest the rest in a diversified mix of stock and bond mutual fund that jibes with your tolerance for risk. The annuity generates steady income much like a pension. The stock and bond funds can provide long-term growth to help maintain your purchasing power over the course of a long retirement and also act as a source of liquidity for any additional spending money you need. (As a practical matter, you'll also want to have a cash reserve for emergencies and such.) This column goes into more detail about how this annuity-plus-traditional portfolio approach works.

Annuity payments: Income for life

One significant drawback to relying on an immediate annuity for retirement income is that you can no longer get to your money once you've invested in the immediate annuity. So you can't tap it for emergencies or leave it to your heirs. And if you die shortly after buying the annuity, you'll have shelled out a lot of dough for a small number of payments. Generally, an annuity makes the most sense if you (or your spouse, if you're married) expect to live to life expectancy or beyond.

But there are advantages too. You can count on the annuity payment to be stable whether interest rates are rising or falling. An annuity also generates higher monthly payments than you can get from a bond fund (largely because, unlike with a bond fund, you give up access to your original investment in the annuity). Today, for example, a 65-year-old man who invests $150,000 in an immediate annuity might collect about $820 a month for life.

Or, since the annuity provides higher payments, you could choose to invest less money in the annuity than in the bond fund and receive the same size monthly payments. This would allow you to keep more of your nest egg in a mix of stocks and bonds that can grow over time.

Before you embark on either strategy, I suggest you do a retirement budget to get a better handle on just how much retirement income you may need. If it turns out that Social Security (which is also effectively a pension) will provide enough income to cover all or most of your essential living expenses, then you may not need more pension-like income from an annuity. In which case you can rely on your portfolio of stock and bond funds for any income needs beyond what Social Security provides.

In fact, even if Social Security doesn't cover your essential expenses, you may not need an annuity if your nest egg is so large relative to whatever expenses it must cover that your chances of running through your savings in your lifetime are minuscule. (To see whether that's the case, you can go to this retirement income calculator.)

But if there is a gap between the income you'll receive from Social Security and your basic living expenses and you would like to cover all or most of that gap with income that's assured, then you may want to do so with an investment that can actually provide pension-like income -- i.e., an annuity.

One final note: There's no need to rush this decision. Indeed, spending a couple of years in retirement can give you a better sense of how much income you'll require and how much, if any, pension-type income you need beyond what you get from Social Security. And if you eventually decide an annuity is a good choice, you'll also want to set aside plenty of time to get answers to these key questions before you buy, so that you end up with an annuity that's right for you.
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